Maison Margiela just released their spring/summer collection, and it is another great showing of the label’s deconstructionist yet luxurious aesthetic. The collection is viewable at Vogue. The collection features a series of motifs and references to tailoring, ranging from visible tailor chalk on garments to intentionally-removed seams and playful twists on normal garment construction.
Maison Margiela has been under the auspices of their new creative director, and his influence can be seen throughout the menswear collection. Tailoring chalk makes an appearance on several garments, hinting at the hidden bits of structure that underlines the garments. There are jackets that have been taken apart and left half-assembled, with exposed stitching and arms missing. The fabrics are as luxurious as ever, with lush prints showing up on flowing silks. The highlight of the prints shows a fox chasing a duck through a marsh, and the paint appears to be applied by hand. The level of detail is immaculate and shows incredible attention to detail. A deconstructed plaid shirt nods to the grunge influence and the success of Saint Laurent in the past two years. Short shorts make an appearance, and the collection is not uncomfortable using feminine sex appeal on their male models. One outfit features short shorts and hip cutouts on a garment made of stiff olive fabric. This collection is exciting yet wearable, and the label is adapting well to their new head designer.