ARE PEPTIDES THE REAL FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH? HERE'S WHAT SCIENCE SAYS.

It seems like every week, influencers are touting a new skin care ingredient that promises results “better than Botox” — and lately it’s been peptides.

One claim is that peptides can improve just about any skin issue, from fine lines to dry skin. Some influencers even claim that peptides can erase wrinkles. 

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It’s healthy to have a good dose of skepticism about influencer claims. However, “this is a time where influencers are accurate,” at least to some extent, said Dr. Corey L. Hartman, a dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama.

We spoke to dermatologists to get to the bottom of how peptides work, the type of results you can expect, and which claims about peptides are just influencer bluster. 

What are peptides? 

Peptides are small chains of amino acids. They are naturally produced in the body and have a variety of essential functions, ranging from tissue regeneration to hormone regulation and metabolism, Hartman explained.Peptides can be used topically or in supplements to support better-looking skin, he said. While both supplements and topical products containing peptides can be helpful, we are focusing on topical peptides used in skin care products. 

“In skin care, peptides mimic the body’s natural proteins to stimulate cellular growth and promote overall cellular health,” Hartman explained. In skin care products, peptides work by “sending a signal to cells to create more collagen and elastin,” he said. Increasing these signals can significantly impact how our skin looks, but peptides have their limits. 

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Peptides can help skin look better, but they don’t work miracles.

While influencers aren’t known for consistently providing accurate beauty advice, this time they are on to something. However, some influencers overstate the benefits of peptides or fail to explain how to use them to achieve the best results. 

Some “peptides can deeply penetrate the skin barrier and deliver the ‘goods,’” explained Dr. Anna Chacon, a dermatologist in Miami, Florida. When peptides penetrate the skin deeply, they increase collagen production, which “can improve the skin’s elasticity and smooth fine lines, delivering noticeable anti-aging benefits,” she said.

Peptides can also help skin “appear plumper and smoother” and improve skin hydration, texture and firmness, said Dr. Kseniya Kobets, a dermatologist and the director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Elmsford, New York. They are particularly beneficial for “lines that form with expression, such as laugh lines around the mouth and eyes,” added Dr. Toral Vaidya, a dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York.

Nevertheless, peptides aren’t a cure-all and won’t make you look decades younger, Chacon cautioned. Any claims that peptides can erase wrinkles or deliver the same results as Botox are “not valid and should be questioned,” she emphasized.

Moreover, although peptides can noticeably improve the appearance of skin,“ skin care results are usually mild compared to those seen with injectables or procedures,” Kobets said. 

It’s essential to choose the proper peptide formulation and use it correctly.

Not all products containing peptides are created equally. Peptides must be formulated correctly to work, Chacon explained. “Using peptides in the form of serums or lotions as opposed to cleansers is important,” she said. Peptides need time to penetrate the skin barrier, and cleansers that are meant to be washed off almost right away won’t have enough time to work, she said. Chacon suggested using an overnight serum so it has time to deeply penetrate the skin. 

Moreover, for the best results, products that contain peptides should be combined with other active ingredients, Kobets explained. Look for formulations that contain peptides and ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, antioxidants and hydrators like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, she recommended. “For sensitive or dry skin, pair with humectants and emollients to avoid irritation,” she explained. To help reduce puffiness, look for a product that combines peptides and caffeine, Kobets added. 

Are peptides a good alternative to retinol? 

Many influencersencourage using peptides along with another popular skin care ingredient, retinol. Although peptides and retinols both have anti-aging effects, they work in different ways.

“Peptides are more delicate, hydrating and help to stimulate collagen and elastin production. Retinols are potent and speed up cellular turnover,” Chacon said. Influencers are correct that incorporating both into your skin care routine can be beneficial, Chacon said. However, knowing how to use both products as part of a healthy routine is important, and many influencers get that part wrong, she explained.

Chacon cautioned that peptides and retinol shouldn’t be used at the same time. She also recommended avoiding serums and creams that contain both peptides and retinols. “Ifusing a retinoid, be sure to alternate as opposed to layering. Use the peptides in the morning and the retinol at night, for example,” she said. “Using them together can be irritating, so alternating them is generally best to ensure you’re getting the most out of both ingredients while maintaining optimum barrier health and integrity,” she explained.

Vaidya explained that peptides can be a great alternative for those who can’t tolerate retinols but want similar benefits. “Peptides offer anti-aging and barrier-repair benefits without the irritation profile that retinoids can often cause. They’re ideal for sensitive skin, pregnant individuals, or anyone who is not able to tolerate using retinoids,” she explained.

Don’t expect results overnight. 

Peptides can deliver fantastic results, but seeing meaningful change can take several months, Kobets cautioned. “Skin peptides typically start to work within one to two weeks, leading to visible hydration and improved skin smoothness,” she said. However, because the body takes time to produce collagen, it can take six to 12 months to see a difference in fine lines and mild to moderate wrinkles, Kobets said.

For maximum effect, combine peptides with other healthy lifestyle habits, such as getting enough sleep and drinking plenty of water, Kobets added. Taking oral peptides can also help skin look its best, she said.  

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